2014 Trip Summary

2014 Stats

Distance Travelled: ~170 km (~105 miles)

Temples Visited: 8

Gifts (osettai) Received: Cold green tea, rice balls, coffee and sweats, oranges (mikan), three car rides, goodie bags, compass, pens, owl charms.

Blisters: Measured by the square inch

Foreigners Seen (besides ourselves): 2

Trip Total Stats

Distance Travelled: ~330 km (~205 miles)

Temples Visited: 31

Gifts (osettai) Received: Cold green tea, rice balls, coffee and sweats, oranges
(mikan), three car rides, goodie bags, compass, pens, owl charms, green tea, cookies, ¥1,000 (~$12), kumamon charm.

Blisters: Measured by the square inch

Foreigners Seen (besides my/ourselves): 4

 

Day Seven (2014)

Distance: 16 Miles
Temples: 28-31
Lodging: Intercontinental Tokyo Bay

We were now in Kochi, the prefectural capital and the end of our journey.  After a so-so breakfast we were on our way to the first of four temples.  This was our first day in a real city.  At times we walked along busy highways, but just as often we were in residential neighbourhoods or, at the end of the day, trekking through a park. 

Just after the first temple of the day we ran into a lady who gave us two bags of mikan, a Japanese tangerine.   They were delicious.

At temple 29 we ran into a group of kids who were on a field trip learning about the temple and pilgrimage.  They were meeting incoming pilgrims, introducing themselves, and passing out goodie bags with a short note from the child inside.  The kids were quite shy, especially with two foreigners, but at their teacher's prompting they dutifully introduced themselves to us.

"Honoured Pilgrim: Since the day is hot eat plenty of food and take care of your health, please do your best.  Take care and aim for the final temple, please do your best.  I think walking would be hard, please do your best."

-Motoyama Elementary School 4th Grade *name*

(Reading names is beyond me)

After several attempts Aldin also got someone to allow him to take a video of them stamping our stamp books.  Let's hear it for persistence! 




As we approached our last temple of the trip evening was coming on and I started to worry about making it to the airport in time for our flight to Tokyo.  Happily there was a taxing sitting at the entrance to the temple who took our packs and told us to take our time, he would wait for us.  A last set of candles, incense, prayers, and stamps and then we were in a taxi on the way to the airport. 

 Rice polisher

Until next time!

Day Six (2014)

Distance: 20 Miles
Temples: None
Lodging: Marukome Ryokan

Another day, another 20 miles.  No temples today, just more nice weather and seaside views.

 These big guys were everywhere

 City-specific manhole covers, pretty awesome

 Washed-out path?  Huh?

Just be glad I didn't post the kissy-face one

Slightly creepy rest hut

"English" (Click for bigger version)

A bar

Day Five (2014)

Distance: 21 Miles
Temples: 27
Lodging: Drive In 27

The morning started with a brief service at the temple, followed by yet another amazing meal, and then we hit the road.

 Rockin' the hat

 Our shadows look cooler then we do

This was a one-temple day, right at the very end.  It was also the only day that I hadn't been able to make a sleeping reservation for, every time I tried the place I wanted the phone would just ring and ring.  I'd learned my lesson from last year, so at the first payphone I resolved not to leave until I had a place to sleep.

Once again my first choice didn't pick up, so it was on to number two- there were only three places to pick from.  The payphone was along a busy road and I had a hard time understanding the old lady that answered the phone.  I said "yes" to several things that I didn't fully understand, and hung up fairly confident that we had a place to stay that night.

 These were everywhere, showing elevation above sea-level

 "In case of a tsunami, this part of town is screwed."

The walk passed without incident, and soon we arrived at our lodging, "Drive-In 27".  Temple 27 was a mountain temple and Drive-In 27 was located at the base of the mountain.  We checked in and dropped our packs at what looked to be a rather shabby restaurant.  The location of the rooms for sleeping was not clear.

The climb up to Temple 27 was steep but not terrible, and we made it up much faster then we thought we would.

Once back at Drive-In 27 we had a decent dinner and then the land lady told us to follow her to our rooms.  She took us out the door and down a few blocks, into the center of a small town.  In a rather run-down building she showed us to our rooms.  Water stains on the walls, patched paper walls, and a trick spot just inside the door where apparently there was nothing holding up the tatami mat floor.  Aldin was nice enough to discover that spot for me.

Actually the place was so bad it was awesome, and ranks as my second favourite lodging of the trip.  

Dinner

Day Four (2014)

Distance: 15 miles
Temples: 24-26
Lodging: Temple 26, Kongochoji (金剛頂寺)

We started the day with a special treat, as our landlady ushered us outside to witness a "daruma sunrise".  Under certain conditions a mirror image of the sun will appear during sunrise and sunset, and although very brief it's a neat effect.  My camera was not up to the task, but here's an example of what it looked like.

We decided that it would be best to give Aldin's feet a rest day and have him take take public transportation.  As we discussed our plans at the bus stop an old lady pilgrim walked past us and then returned a few minutes later to ask if she could take a picture.  Apparently she decided the sight of two young foreign pilgrims was too unusual to not get a photo of.  Our saviour from the night before also drove by on her way to work, honking and waving.  

I left Aldin at the bus stop and started on my way, planning to meet him at the next temple.  About 20 minutes later I hear a honk and look over to see him cruising down the road in a car.  It turns out not long after we separated a car pilgrim saw him and decided to offer him a lift.   Why ride the bus when you can get door-to-door service?

Money was running a little low so I stopped at a post office to withdraw some funds.  It was only 8:30am though, and the ATM didn't open until 9, so I walked down to the ocean, took some photos, and lazed about in the shade.

Why, Japan, why?

Temple 24, the first temple of the trip, was a big one.  Situated up above Cape Muroto, it is here that the faithful believe Kobo Daishi achieved enlightenment and took his priestly name, Kukai, from the kanji for "Sky" and "Sea".  (Kobo Daishi is a posthumous name.)  The hike up to the temple was unexpectadly steep, but the result was worth it.

 The Daishi as a Youth

The next temple of the day, 25, was a short walk and located in Muroto City, population 15,000.  Again there was an unexpected hike up many stairs.  However there was also a shop selling hats, and we both picked one up.  Those brims would have been nice during the typhoon!

Finally we made it to temple 26 and our lodging for the night.  By far the best place that we stayed at, our room had a lovely view and the food was fantastic.

Day Three (2014)

Distance Walked: 19.8 miles
Temples: None (again...)
Lodging: Lodge Ozaki (ロッジ　おざき）


We started nice and early, and after a tasty breakfast and a bit of foot surgery Aldin decided it would be best for him to ride the train to the end of the line.  This would cut a few miles off the day for him and give his battered feet a bit of a break.

As I walked the first part of the day solo I heard someone calling out.  An older lady across the street was beckoning me over.  She was the owner of a cafe and invited me in for a little refreshment and conversation. 

 Inside I was treated to a very decent cup of coffee, a few sweets, and some good conversation with the owners and a fellow customer.  I talked about Montana, my life, and shared some photos from my phone.  It was a very nice little break.

Not long after I met back up with Aldin and we trudged down the coast.  The weather was beautiful, sunny with a light breeze, and the sea was pretty.  As we walked though it became clear that our feet, beat up after walking for hours through the rain, were a problem.  Our pace was slow and as darkness fell we stopped at a payphone and called the inn to let them know we would be late. 

In the end we stuck out our thumbs and eventually a kind soul took pitty on us and picked us up.  We all squeezed into her small Japanese car and she took us the last mile or so to the inn.  She was very friendly and lifted our spirits tremendously. 

The bath that night felt heavenly, and after another tasty dinner and some laundry it was off to bed for a good 10-hours of shuteye.